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Xpuhil Campeche Travel Guide

For additional information about some of the places listed here, see the destination article.

Where to Stay - Click here for price key

We highly recommend Hotel Chicanná Ecovillage ($$$--$$$$, Carretera Escárcega—Chetumal km. 144, tel. 981/811-9192, www.chicannaecovillageresort.com), located directly across the highway from Chicanná archaeological site in the town of Xpuhil. The air-conditioned hotel has a restaurant and swimming pool. There’s a television in the library (but not in guest rooms), and wireless Internet by the pool or lobby only.

Tucked near the long entrance road to the archaeological site, the more remote Hotel Puerto Calakmul ($$$$, www.puertacalakmul.com.mx, tel. 998/892-2624) offers a restaurant/bar, swimming pool, wireless Internet, and lounge with Sky TV. Each of the guest cabins has ceiling fan (no a/c) and a hammock as well as king or twin beds. It’s not close to any actual town or village, so meals and drinks will be strictly on site.

The Canadian owners of Río Bec Dreams ($$$, www.riobecdreams.com) speak English and so can help their clients arrange tours of the area. The hotel offers a gift shop/bookstore and restaurant-bar. Choose a “jungalow” with shared bath or a bungalow with its own bathroom. It’s located four km (2.5 miles) from the village of Becán.

Budget-oriented Hotel La Victoria ($, at Xpuhil’s bus station, tel. 983/871-6027) offers clean rooms with a/c and Sky TV. The restaurant is allegedly open 24 hours a day.

Hotel Becán ($, tel. 983/871-6027) is another hotel in the area popular with budget travelers.

Where to Eat - Click here for price key

In addition to the following restaurants, travelers can eat at Chicanná Ecovillage and La Victoria Hotels, listed above under “Where to Stay.” In the heart of Xpuhil, Restaurant Génesis ($$--$$$, Av. Calakmul s/n, cell tels. 983/117-3127 or 983/138-9189) is open daily and offers burgers and enchiladas, sandwiches, eggs, and full meals. Grilled chicken is served with white rice, cabbage salad, tortillas, and spicy salsa at Pollo Estilo Sinaloa ($$, Av. Calakmul s/n, Xpuhil, tel. 983/871-6260). Open daily 7AM through 9PM. Other restaurants recommended by locals, which we didn’t have a chance to try, include Restaurant Becán (Carretera Escárcega—Chetumal Km. 149, Becán, cell tel. 983/113-8337) and El Sazón Veracruzana (Avenida Calakmul s/n, Col. Aviación, across from the Xpuhil archaeological site, cell tel. 983/107-1262).

Places to Visit and Ecotourism Projects

Zoh Laguna is 10 km north of Xpuhil on the road to Hopelchén, Carretera 261. Two hotels in town provide lodgings for groups (Hostal de Silvia) and individuals (Cabañas Mercedes, (http://mercedeszohlaguna.blogspot.mx). For handcrafts, ask locals to direct you to Artesanias Irmeny (cell tel. 983/120-8865 or 983/131-6343).

To visit Ejido 20 de Noviembre, head east from Xpuhil about 15 km (9 miles) on Carretera 186 toward Chetumal, turning south (to the right), just past the military checkpoint for about 4 kilometers. From this community the road continues to the Río Bec archaeological site, which is only accessible by passenger car only during the dry season, usually November through May. You can also rent a horse in Ejido 20 de Noviembre and ride to the site. For more info contact the guide Enrique Rodríguez (see below).

The ecotourism project is located in Ejido Echeverria Castellot II, better known as Carrizal. Follow the signs from Xpuhil toward Hormiguero archaeological site and Justo Sierra Mendez. Although the community seems slow to embrace the concept of tourism, they have the infrastructure to accommodate overnight visitors and can provide guides to Hormiguero and other area attractions.

Getting to Xpuhil and Environs

By Car

Xpuhil is located 302 kilometers (180 miles) southeast of the city of Campeche, at Km146 of Federal Highway 186. An alternative route is heading south on Highway 261 from Yucatan state or northern Campeche. The distance between Chetumal, Quintana Roo and Xpuhil is about 124 km (77 miles). Although you can access the Maya ruins (Xpuhil, Becán, Chicanná, Hormiguero, and others) by taxi or bus, it’s easiest to tour the area by car.

By Bus

Buses on the ADO (first class) line and the Sur (second class) line run between Campeche’s southern transportation hub, Escárcega, and Chetumal, capital of Quintana Roo. Xpuhil is about midway between the two, and the bus takes about two hours in either direction. There are about four morning departures (and arrivals) and about that many in the afternoon/evening. You can get schedules (Xpuhil isn’t listed as a stop; use Escárcega and Chetumal as points of arrival and/departure) on the site www.ADO.com.mx.

More Info

Archaeological sites are open daily 8-5 and charge modest admission fees.

Tourist Info

There is no formal tourism office in Xpuhil. For help planning your trip, contact English-speaking guide Enrique Rodriguez (ki_ke_5@hotmail.com, cell phone 983/104-0504l), who leads tours of the archaeological sites and other area attractions. He and his colleagues at www.becancampeche.com can arrange lodgings, rental cars, and other services in this area of only basic tourism infrastructure. Alternately, stop by the restaurant Genesis, owned by the helpful entrepreneur and local promoter Roque Camacho, or call tourism coordinator Sajit Sánchez Patiño on his cell at 983/753-9297.