Tepoztlan, Morelos
Like nearby Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán is known for its temperate climate and abundant, varied plant life. Surrounded by craggy and dramatic peaks, the town has in fact taken over to some extent from its larger neighbor as a weekend retreat for overworked urbanites.
Much smaller than Cuernavaca, with fewer than 25,000 residents, Tepoz (as it’s called for short) is a close-knit community that’s acquiring a reputation as a New Age town. Some say its tradition of healing arts dates to pre-Hispanic days; others say a significant number of UFOs have been spotted in the area. Whether it’s something in the air or just the allure of a pretty little community with plenty of services, Tepoztlán is a popular destination for day-trippers and weekend travelers.
Recently named a “Pueblo Mágico” by the Mexican government, this borough of one- and two-story adobes is surrounded by wooded hills perfect for long walks or horseback rides. Spas and small inns offer Temazcal steam baths, saunas, swimming pools, and holistic treatments. Mild temperatures permit outdoor cafes and ranch-style restaurants both in town and in the surrounding villages.
Tepoz History
The ceremonial center at Tepoztlán was built soon after the demise of Teotihuacan (by about AD 800—900) but before the Aztecs immigrated and rose to power in the Valley of Mexico. On a high escarpment overlooking Tepoz and the densely wooded Atongo Valley, the Nahua inhabitants erected a temple to Tepoztecatl, god of fertility, a successful harvest, and the intoxicating beverage pulque.
Built on an artificially made platform, the ruins of this pre-Hispanic temple can be visited after an uphill hike of 40 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on your level of fitness. The change in elevation is approximately 549 meters (1,800 feet). Acrophobics should note that while the hike isn’t technically difficult, there are places where the trail nearly disappears into the cliff face. Those who persevere are rewarded with magnificent views which, on a clear day, can stretch all the way to Puebla and Guerrero states.
Tepoztlán was conquered by the Aztecs during the reign of Moctezuma Ilhuicamina (r. 1440—1469) and, half a century later, by the Spanish. As was customary, the conquering Europeans used local labor to build mission-monasteries for the purpose of converting the “heathen.” Tepoztlán’s mission church, dedicated to the Virgin of the Nativity, was the first in the region.
Today the church and the adjoining monastery are free to the public and in reasonably good condition. There are good views of the town and surrounding hills from the upstairs rooms, and one of the monk’s cells (large by the standards of the day), can be seen from behind a restraining rope. After Benito Juárez’s Reform Laws stripped the Catholic church of much of its power, the building was used for non-religious purposes, including as a barracks by French troops during the reign of Maximilian von Habsburg. Graffiti currently being restored in the monastery is thought to have been doodled by troops of Emiliano Zapata during the Mexican Revolution.
In the 1930s the Tepoztlán monastery was declared a national historic monument by President Lázaro Cárdenas. In the 1990s, UNESCO declared this and 13 other former monasteries on the flanks of the Popocatepetl Volcano as World Heritage Sites. Among them are examples of Franciscan, Dominican, and Augustinian constructions, making it interesting to compare the iconography and architecture favored by the three Orders.
Tepoz Today
Wednesdays and Sundays are market days. Wednesdays are primarily for foodstuffs, while merchants take advantage of weekend visitors to offer a variety of handicrafts as well. Also on weekends and holidays, boutiques around town spring to life, offering designer cheeses and whole-grain bread, vegetarian tamales, and gifts, as well as incense, meditation-inspiring CDs, and other “New Age” accoutrements.
Some of Tepoz’s restaurants, cafes, and shops are closed midweek: so come then if you want a mellower scene, or on the weekend if you prefer the Full Monty. By Thursday night or midday on Friday, visitors begin to trickle into town. Seekers hoping to siphon off some of Tepoz’s “positive vibes” check in to upscale lodgings with spas and temazcal steam baths or cheaper, more basic lodgings in the center of town. The locals spring to action, baking fresh bread and tortillas and tamales and vats of redeeming soups for their city-dwelling brethren. Tepoztecos with more space and less culinary prowess rent out parking areas and bathrooms. The spruced up streets surrounding the main plaza and church hum with low-key activity, while just a few streets away, the vibe is as laid back as ever.
TEPOZTLAN TRAVEL GUIDE
Places to Stay in Tepoztlan - Click here for price key
For an inexpensive lodgings downtown, check out Posada Paraíso ($$, Calle Buenavista #10, tel. 739/395-2553).
Our Tepoz connection likes the comfortable little cabins at Xacallan ($$$, Calle del Olvido #9 at Calle Condesa, Barrio San Miguel, tel. 739/395-4999, www.xacallan.com). Among the services they offer are guided hikes, horseback riding, massage, and bicycle rental. There’s parking and a swimming pool, too.
An elegant spa, hotel, and restaurant just outside Tepoz proper is La Buena Vibra ($$$$, San Lorenzo #7, Valle de Atongo, tel. 739/395-1491 or 739/395-7087, www.hotelbuenavibra.com). The property boasts gorgeous grounds with a heated swimming pool, several Jacuzzis, beauty salon/spa, and a pretty indoor/outdoor restaurant. Many types of massages and facials are offered as well as yoga and meditation classes, healing therapies such as Reiki, and a temazcal steam room. Although still expensive, dorm rooms are cheaper than private rooms and suites. Free Wi-Fi, no kids under 16.
The elegant Posada del Tepozteco ($$$$, Calle Paraíso #3, Barrio San Miguel, tel. 739/395-0010, www.posadadeltepozteco.com.mx) is a member of the Tesoros hotel group (www.tesorosdemexico.com.mx). This beautiful property overlooks the parish church and downtown streets from its perch just a few steep blocks uphill. The pool is heated, the restaurant has an elegant simplicity, and guest rooms and suites are classy and comfortable. There’s a temazcal (pre-Hispanic steam bath) on the property, too.
Places to Eat - Click here for price key
For a yummy meal at a non-touristy restaurant, my Tepoz connection recommends Restaurant Ruth in the town market. Ruth doesn’t have a sign; look for a clean, popular eatery selling soups, stews, and typical fried treats. Ask one of the market vendors to point out this family-run restaurant.
El Pan Nuestro (Avenida Revolución #82, tel. 739/395-2052) is a small cafe, bar, and bakery. The chef-owner often has things on the menu that you can’t get elsewhere, like salmon.
A changing menu of European dishes such as savory tarts and soufflés is featured at La Diferencia ($$$, Calle Isabela la Católica #3, tel. 739/395-1371), which is the haunt of upscale locals as well as travelers in the know. Closed Tuesday through Thursday.
Touristy but dependable Los Colorines ($$$, Av. del Tepozteco #13, tel. 739/395-0198) is brightly painted and draped in cut-paper flags. The music is Mexican and most of the patrons are visitors from Mexico City and elsewhere.
Take a drive to the neighboring village of Amatlán de Quetzalcoatl and have a meal at Hotel Restaurant Bar & Spa Amatlán de Quetzalcoatl ($$$, Domicilio Conocido, tel. 739/395-1880). The mainly Mexican specialties are average but the setting is pretty, and you can call ahead to schedule a past life regression or chakra harmonization at the (overpriced) hotel. Take a drive through the village, stopping at the pretty little church if it’s open.
La Luna Mextli (Av. Revolución s/n, tel. 739/395-1114) is recommended for good eats, a cool ambience, and perhaps a drink or two. It’s open during the week when other Tepoz restaurants are closed.
Tamales Vegetarianos Mina, on the corner of Avenida Revolución and 5 de Mayo, has the best vegetarian tamales.
Café Los Buenos Tiempos (Av. Revolución 14) is a nice café offering Wi-Fi. A few doors up, Tepoz Café is more of an ex-pat hangout, and offers frappées in addition to the usual coffee suspects.
You can’t miss Tepoznieves for ice cream: there are about four locations downtown. The ice cream shop is known for its many flavors. Choose anything from mango, strawberry, or vanilla to Cinderella’s Kiss or Symphony of the Sea.
Things to Do & See
Facing the town plaza is el Ex-Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Natividad (Ex-Monastery of Our Lady of the Nativity, tel. 739/395-0255). It’s also called La Parroquia (the parish church). In neighboring Tlayacapan, visit the Augustinian temple el Ex-Convento San Juan Bautista and a bit farther afield, Yecapixtla’s temple, also dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Religious and architecture buffs may want to visit all of the Ruta del Volcán Popocatepetl monasteries, referred to as los Ex-Conventos de la Ruta Popocatepetl.
Shopping
Two tianguis per week are held in the main plaza. The Wednesday market is primarily food and practical items, while handcrafts also are sold on Sundays. Booths along the west side of the main church have handicrafts for sale daily.
Santa Fe (Av. Revolución #24, tel. 739/395-2797) is a woman’s co-op with hand-painted silk scarves, one-of-a-kind clothing, and fine art for sale. It’s not cheap, but there are nice things. Open Thursday through Sunday and on holidays.
More Info
Get tourism info at City Hall (tel. 739/395-0009 or 739/395-2113, downtown) or at the tourism kiosk at the entrance to town, near the PEMEX station. For tourist info in Cuernavaca, call 777/314-3920. On the web, visit www.morelostravel.com for information about Tepoz and the state of Morelos.
How to Get There & Away
By Bus
Buses serving Tepoztlán depart from La Tasqueña, Mexico City’s southern bus station. From Cuernavaca, catch a frequent bus (the Ometochtli line) from the Adolfo López Mateos market.
By Car
From Mexico City, take Highway 95D (beginning at Tlalpan, in the south of town) to the entrance to Cuernavaca. At the Emiliano Zapata Roundabout (or glorieta) head towards la Glorieta de la Paloma de la Paz and then take the free highway to Tepoztlán. Otherwise you can take the toll road from Mexico City to the Cuautla turnoff, passing one toll booth. The distance is approximately 80 kilometers (48 miles).
Follow the signs towards Cuautla to get to Tepoz from Cuernavaca. The distance is only about 27 km (17 miles).
See http://www.mexicoguru.com/mexico-driving-distance.php for distances from other towns.
 Tepoztlan Jigsaw Puzzle
| 
