San Blas, Nayarit

San Blas is a quintessential Pacific beach town that hasn’t yet succumbed to tourism. It’s actually the northernmost town slated for development as part of Nayarit’s ambitious Riviera Nayarit tourism plan. But for now it is still a laid-back beach town of some 12,000 souls. Costco and Walmart are blissfully absent, in fact only mom-and-pop grocery stores and the town market provide supplies. There are no chain or five-star hotels. This is a great place for travelers who don’t mind trading major frills for some authentic Mexican hospitality. And it’s still a budget destination.

One of San Blas’ biggest attractions are the miles and miles of undeveloped beaches south of town. The closest is long, sandy Borrego Beach, with smallish waves. Lining the wide shore are lanky coconut palms. At the north end of the beach, claim a table at any one of a dozen or so nearly identical open-air eateries called ramadas. Sit in the shade under a palm-thatch roof and order drinks or simple seafood dishes. Many have hammocks where you can relax and read all day if you like. At the south end of the beach is a picturesque estuary. Bring bug repellant, especially during the rainy season. San Blas’ infamous jejenes (no-see-ums) can be ruthless, but they are manageable with repellants containing DEET.

Around San Blas:    Chacala    Guayabitos    San Pancho    Sayulita    Teacapan    Tepic

Las Islitas beach is about five miles south of San Blas. The ubiquitous ramadas offer refreshments, and the south end of the beach is good for swimming. The once legendary wave, known as the longest wave in the world, rarely breaks anymore except in the summer months. For a nearly perfect day, order the fish sarandeando, cooked whole over mangrove wood. The only problem is the bugs; this is the jejenes country, so come prepared. Buses from San Blas will drop you close to Las Islitas about every half hour. Take the “El Llano” bus and get off at the village of Matanchen, known for its delicious banana bread.
Photo 1910

At Los Cocos Beach, have a swim in the ocean or spend the afternoon at Casa Mañana, a hotel and restaurant where you can have lunch and use the pool. Ask the bus driver to let you off at Casa Mañana. The trip takes about 45 minutes due to a detour to La Palma. When you see the renovated Hotel Delfin, you are almost there. You can also take a taxi for about 100 pesos.

Once famous for it’s extremely long surfing wave (now diminished by changes to the ocean’s floor), long, wide Playa Matanchen is still a fine beach. If you like peace and quiet, go during the week and you’ll have the place to yourself. If you’d rather have some company, Etc. Beach Club is an attractive beachfront restaurant with a swimming pool; it’s open only on weekends. Take the El Llano bus and look for the Matanchen sign.

Back in San Blas itself, take an inexpensive boat ride across the estuary to Isla Del Rey. This island beach is almost completely deserted and seems to go on forever. Climb up to the lighthouse for a view of San Blas. Isla del Rey is sacred to the Huichol Indians, who sometimes perform spiritual ceremonies here in their native costumes. Story continues after chart....

Birds Are King, Kingfishers Too

Birdwatching is big in San Blas. Tours are organized in the United States and other countries, or you can hire a local guide to access estuaries and mangroves as well as ocean and foothill environments. The International Festival of Migratory Birds draws aficionados in late January.

You don’t have to be a birder to love San Blas’ claim to fame, however, a boat ride through the mangrove swamps to La Tovara freshwater spring. On the half-hour skiff ride along miles of mangrove-lined canals you’ll see egrets, herons, kingfishers, and many other species of birds as well as crocodiles, turtles, and iguanas. There’s an optional trip to a croc farm where a small zoo houses boar, deer, and other native species. Hang out at La Tovara’s restaurant or swim in the deep spring before returning through the mangroves.

Excursions from San Blas

A few kilometers from San Blas, Singayta is a humble village known for its colorful birds. The local environmental group El Manglar offers ecotours in an effort to bring money into the community while maintaining its jungle ecosystem. For a small fee, local guides will show you around the village, escort you down a jungle trail, and perhaps take you canoeing to see lagoon wildlife. Don’t expect anything sophisticated; part of Singayta’s charm is its simplicity. If possible set up the trip in advance by contacting English-speaking Juan Bananas at El Yako Bakery, or take your chances, hailing a San Blas--Tepic bus and getting off at the village, less than 10 kilometers from San Blas. Local guides at Singayta may or may not speak English.

In addition to its many long beaches, there are many beautiful places to hike and walk around San Blas. Take a bus to La Bajada, a pretty village in the foothills where you’ll find friendly people and good birdwatching. At one end of the town there is a hiking trail, part of the old Camino Real, which goes through coffee plantations and eventually joins the road to Tepic. Buses run from San Blas to La Bajada a couple times a day; it’s about half an hour from San Blas by bus. This is a nice day trip where you will be away from other tourists; it’s a good opportunity to practice your Spanish.

Here are some other activities and places to visit around San Blas. For more detailed information, see www.visitsanblas.com.

• About an hour south of San Blas, Platanitos is a lovely cove with is the best snorkeling around. Half a dozen restaurants on the beach offer shade and sustenance.
  
• Loftily referred to as “the Venice of Nayarit,” Mexcaltitan is thought to be the ancestral home of the Aztecs.
  
• Santiago Ixcuintla is a typical Mexican town.
  
• Mecatan has a waterfall nearby.
  
• Jalcocotan is famous for its coffee.
  

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