El Huarache Veloz

Two and a half blocks up from the Pemex station at the north end of downtown Puerto Vallarta is an excellent little place called “The Speedy Huarache.” A huarache is both a traditional leather sandal and---in this case---a sandal-shaped cornmeal cake topped with meat or beans, cheese, salsa and shredded lettuce. The owners are from Mexico City and the style of cooking reflects the dishes popular there, like sopes, gorditas and quesadillas. For several years they ran a small restaurant in Montreal, and speak a bit of Quebecois.

To drink, order a soda or a glass of horchata or the fruit water of the day, such as a nice cold agua de papaya---delicious and nutritious. Tortillas are cooked to order for your meal. A sign indicates that patrons should be patient, so despite the name, service at “the Speedy Huarache” is not particularly fast. But well worth the wait.

City: : Puerto Vallarta State: Jalisco Who: Petra and her husband, Enrique What: Delicious regional treats from Mexico City: such as huaraches, gorditas and sopes Where: Calle Honduras 260-A, at Calle Colombia, Col. 5 de diciembre Tel: No Phone When:: Monday through Saturday 8:30AM to 7PM, closed Sunday. Why: Large portions, tortillas made in the moment, very clean How: Walk from the malecon, downtown PV, or Calle Mexico hotels Cost: Most meals 30 to 40 pesos Other notes: Cash only

Mariscos Cisneros

No way, José! No way you’ll find yummier seafood tacos than those made at this tiny Vallarta stand three blocks south of the Cuale River. You’ll find brothers Marcos and Ricardo Cisneros on the early beat, chopping up chilies and onions for their famous salsas. Ten in the morning is definitely not too early for one of their tasty giant burritas of smoked marlin, shrimp or octopus. Smaller appetites might want to share, or wait til they’re starving.

The guys have laminated menus in English as well as Spanish. They’ve taken hygiene classes offered by the city, and been asked to judge cooking contests. The plastic salseros---condiment holders with guacamole and three kinds of salsa, or piquant sauce---are covered to keep away flies.

City: : Puerto Vallarta State: Jalisco Who: Family-owned and operated Mariscos Cisneros What: Seafood cocktails and tostadas, giant burritas, seafood tacos Where: Calle Aguacate 271 between Calles V. Carranza and Lázaro Cárdenas, Col. E. Zapata Tel: 322/223-3569 When:: Wednesday through Monday 10 to 6 Why: Hygienic street food; the salsa mulata is a delicious combination of seven different chilies How: Three blocks south of Cuale River; four blocks inland from Lázaro Cárdenas Park, In the Romantic Zone Cost: Less than US$1 each for most seafood tacos; US$1.50 for shrimp brochette Other notes: Busiest on Sunday; closed Tuesday