Cerocahui and Bahuichivo Train Station

About an hour into the canyon from the Bahuichivo station, Cerocahui has a handful of mountain lodges offering meals and excursions as well as lodgings. Most hotels send drivers to meet arriving guests at the train and need to be arranged ahead of time. Otherwise you can board a dilapidated bus for a picturesque if often unnerving ride to the old mining town of Urique, at the canyon’s base.

Cerocahui is a diminutive mission town where Catholic holidays are still celebrated in distinctly Tarahumara style, with drumming and dancing. The physical and spiritual center of town, San Francisco Javier church was built by the Jesuits in 1680 of pink limestone.

Right across from the mission church, the lodge-like Hotel Mision (tel. 688/818-7046, ext. 432 or from the US 800/896-8196, www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com) is part of the Balderrama chain. En route to town from the train station, Paraiso del Oso (www.mexicohorse.com) is owned by American Doug Rhodes and his wife, Ana. You can arrange horse riding expeditions into the canyon with Doug whether or not you’re staying at his lodge.

Places to visit and outdoor activities:

• Panoramic canyon views from Mirador Cerro del Gallego; the town of Urique, on the canyon floor, can be spotted from there.
• Hike or ride horses through beautiful scenery to the Yeparavo waterfall, and to several other falls and swimming holes
• Go by truck or horse to see the old Sangre de Cristo gold mine and indigenous burial caves
• Just beyond the Bahuichivo station, Cuiteco village has an old Jesuit mission and is famous for its apples.