Bucerias, Nayarit

Part of the so-called Riviera Nayarit, Bucerias has a long, wide, gently sloping beach that is perfect for jogging or long walks. The town itself is less than picturesque, sprawling for several kilometers along the beach and either side of Highway 200. From the road, a jumble of pharmacies and other businesses present a rather hodge-podge appearance. It appeals to snowbirds and other travelers looking to stay near the sea in an area that's less touristy and expensive that Bucerias, about half hour to the south.

Most visitors see only the west side of town, where seafood and Mexican restaurants face the ocean and a broader range of good eateries are sprinkled throughout town. North to south, Bucerias is divided by el Arroyo del Indio, a creek bed that can be forded in a passenger car during the dry season. If you want to avoid crossing the rutted gully, it helps to know whether your destination is in the north or south end of town.

Restaurants and hotels on the south side are found at small, dead-end streets off the main road, Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas. Claudio's Meson Bay is one of the pioneers, serving up all-you-can-eat specials several times a week, accompanied by marimberos tickling the ivories.

You can walk south along the beach all the way south to Flamingos, a development where new hotels are cropping up and the golf course of the same name has been refurbished. Continue perambulating uninterrupted to the south end of Nuevo Vallarta, which ends at the Ameca River and the border with Nayarit State.

North of El Indio creek, the town's simple church faces the main plaza, across from which taxi drivers play cards in the shade as they await fares. Travelers bargain for silver, cheap jewelry, sarongs, and other goods at the outdoor market by the pedestrian bridge. Long- and short-term rentals outnumber hotels, but there is a range of accommodations---from the all-inclusive Decameron (which discourages walk-ins and books primarily through Canadian travel agents) to smaller, mom-and-pop establishments for budget travelers.  

Renowned for its marine life since before the Spanish arrived in the early 1500s, Bucerías' name translates roughly to "diving places." Snails producing a highly sought-after purple dye are said to have been collected here for use exclusively by noble families. Today rather than diving, the main aquatic activities are swimming and, when a swells arrive, long-boarding, body surfing, or boogie boarding.

BUCERIAS TRAVEL GUIDE

Bucerias Hotels -Click here for price key

Bucerías has fewer hotels than vacation rentals. A number of on-line and local agencies provide short- and long-term rentals, including Las Palmas (Av. Lázaro Cárdenas 27, tel. 329/298-00670, www.las-palmas-travel.com) is an established Bucerías vacation realty company. For over-the-top vacation rentals and mansions on the beach, contact Pacific Boutique Properties (www.pacificboutiqueproperties.com).

Decameron ($$$, Calle Lázaro Cárdenas 150, tel. 329/298-0226; 01800/011-1111 toll-free in Mexico, www.decameron.com) is a huge all-inclusive hotel housing mainly Canadian seniors. At the south end of Bucerías, it's big and seemingly impersonal but an excellent value. At this price, you can still afford to go out to eat at least one meal a day at one of Bucerías's many good restaurants.

Posada de Bucerías ($$$, Francisco I. Madero 59, Fracc. Dorada, tel. 329/298-1507, www.loaposadadebucerias.com) has 12 clean, spare rooms surrounding a sparkling courtyard pool. Originally slated to be condos, the hotel was finished in late 2009. A room with kitchenette goes for about 200 pesos more than the standards, with one or two queen beds. There's a large underground parking lot, and a courtyard café serving breakfast until noon. It's on the south side of town.

Bucerias Restaurants - Click here for price key

Many places reduce hours (sporadically or according to a schedule) or close for vacation during the hot, slow, summer months. At that time it's best to call ahead to confirm opening hours.

Aside from the eateries described below, the street facing the beach on the north side of town, Avenida Pacífico, has a string of eateries specializing in seafood. Quality and attention to service and other details waxes and wanes, making recommendations difficult, but among our readers praises have been sung for Aduato's (Av. Pacífico 11. tel. 329/298-2790) and El Brujo (Av. Pacífico 202, tel. 329/298-0406). These and the others have tables on a patio overlooking the sea and below, right on the sand.

Rincón de Ensenada ($-$$, Calle Juárez between Av. Lázaro Cárdenas and Francisco I. Madero) is a friendly place. Outside high season (December through Easter), hours can be erratic, but it's generally open daily 10am to 8pm, except Wednesdays, when it's closed. Service isn't terribly fast, but you can munch on chips and homemade salsas as you wait for your super economical and yummy fish or shrimp quesadilla or taco, a shrimp plate so big it can be shared by two people, or another good seafood dish. The tortillas are made by hand when you order.

For good pizza and pasta, visit Toscana Mía ($$$, Calle Hidalgo 25, Centro, tel. cell 322/149-1281, closed Sunday). It's a popular Italian restaurant on one of the main streets north of the church. From the main road, Highway 200, the giant Chinese "palace" is a good landmark; Calle Hidalgo is the street just to the south.

On the north end of town, Panino's ($$, Av. Mexico at Calle Josefa Ortiz, tel. cell 322/156-4341) makes all of their own sweet and savory breads, cookies, and croissants. Excellent espresso-machine-made coffee comes with a refill; there are uninspired and expensive breakfasts and for lunch, salads and grilled Panini (sandwiches on baguette).

La Quinta di Francesco ($$, Constituyentes between Calles Agustín Melgar and Javier Mina, tel. 329/298-3919, www.laquintadifrancesco.com) closes in summer but is open daily in high season. The chef-owner creates homemade pastas and pizzas as well as Italian-leaning chicken and meat dishes.

For a classy and upscale experience, people drive from as far away as Puerto Vallarta or Sayulita to eat at Mark's ($$$$, Av. Lázaro Cárdenas 56, tel. 329/298-0303, www.marksbucerias.com). It is elegant and expensive and the food is international.

Sweets

For sweets and high-end cakes and pies, visit American-run Pie in the Sky (Héroe de Nacozari 202, tel. 329/298-0838). It's on the east lateral road at the south end of the city. They have free Wi-Fi for customers so you can have coffee and dessert as you cruise the Web.

Also on the east lateral road, north of Pie in the Sky, Los Chatos (Héroe de Nacozari 112, tel. 329/298-2927) is locally owned, less expensive, and makes wonderfully light and fancy desserts, from pies and cakes for a dinner party to individual portions. They also sell many flavors of ice cream, their own brand.

Sweet Thing (Lázaro Cárdenas 64, tel. cell 322/278-6960) has expensive but very popular cinnamon rolls as well as cookies and other sweets. The restaurant serves full breakfasts and early lunch. Open 8:30am to 3 pm except Wednesdays.

Things to Do & See in Bucerias

New World Gym (Plaza Los Amores, off Highway 200 at the north end of town, tel. cell 329/147-5425) is a huge gym that opened in late 2009. It has modern equipment and classes in Zumba, pilates, spinning, and yoga. Classes and gym access by the day, week or month.

Sunflower Massage (Calle Hidalgo 3, Centro, tel. cell 322/110-1082) offers massage, manis and pedis, waxing, and facials.

Scott's Bucerías Tours (Av. Lázaro Cárdenas near Puente del Beso, tel. 329/298-1312, www.vallartatraveladvisor.com) sells all types of tours.

Bucerias Nightlife

The younger set can escape the gray-haired brigade at Bebotero (Av. Héroe de Nacozari 152 (Altos), tel. 329/298-2243, www.buceriasgardens.com) with live rock. Closed Mondays.

Mostly middle-aged and older folks congregate to catch a rock or country band at Bucerías Gardens (Av. Mexico 40, tel. 329/298-0215, www.buceriasgardens.com) open after 9 pm and closing at 1 am. Might be classic rock, or blues, or something else. You can play a game of pool and heave a meal at one of the tables surrounded by plants, or at the bar. Closed Wednesdays.

La Rosa Chueca/The Twisted Rose (Calle Hidalgo at Av. Mexico, tel. cell 322/146-3023, www.twistedrose.com.mx) is a pretty patio space open Monday through Saturday between noon and midnight. You can munch on bar food or a good burger and fries as you wait for the band, usually playing some flavor of salsa/Latino music after 9:30 or 10pm. Professional-caliber dancers sometimes take to the dance floor, providing a free floor show.

Encore Restaurant & Lounge (Av. del Pacífico 15, near Calle Hidalgo, tel. 329/298-0250, (www.encoreonthebeach.com) features the jazzy standards of its singer/owner, Armi Grano, and her trio. The dinner music generally starts at 7:30pm and is done by the time the restaurant closes, at 10 or 10:30. Food service ends earlier.

Shopping in Bucerias

The streets between the town square and El Puente del Beso (Bridge of the Kiss) are lined with booths selling bright ceramic ashtrays and knickknacks, breezy beach clothing from Indonesia, carved wooden statuettes, and other souvenirs. On both the north and south sides of town, small boutiques on the two streets near the beach and perpendicular streets sell clothing, glassware and decorative pottery from Guadalajara, and other typical vacation prizes.

For a glimpse of the non-touristy side of Bucerías, visit the weekly Sunday market, held between about 9am and 2pm. A few vendors sell handcrafts from Oaxaca and elsewhere, but the majority hawk fruits and veggies, piles of polyester panties, kitchen utensils, and other essentials of daily life. Follow the arroyo (dry creek bed) east and you'll not miss it.

Jan Marie Boutique Gallery (Av. Lázaro Cárdenas at Calle Galeana, Col. Las Palmas, tel. 329/298-0303, www.janmarieboutique.com) sells lovely higher end vases, paintings, settees, and other home furnishings.

A block to the south, several galleries and shops are found in and around Art Walk Plaza (Av. Lázaro Cárdenas 68, tel. 329/298-2506).

How to Get to Bucerias

The closest bus station is that of Puerto Vallarta, just north of the international airport and the marina district. It's called Central Camionero (tel. 322/290-1009). The main bus lines serving the area are ETN (www.etn.com.mx, tel. 322/290-1001), Primera Plus (tel. 322/290-0715) and TAP (tel. 322/290-0119). Make reservations and purchase tickets ahead through Ticketbus (tel. 01800/702-8000 anywhere in Mexico, www.ticketbus.com.mx). Transportes Cihuatlán connects PV to Barra de Navidad and the Costalegre.

At this time (January 2009, a taxi from Bucerías to the Central Bus Station costs about 130 pesos. It usually costs slightly more when you catch a taxi at the bus station, unless you drag your suitcase out to the main road, Highway 200, and hail a cab there.