La Reyna

This family-run hole in the wall lures adventurous guests of the area’s upscale inns (like Hacienda de los Tesoros, next door), as well as the busy professionals who run these establishments. Sit at one of two wood-and-leather tables outside in the street (traffic is nearly nonexistent), or inside where the walls are brightened with a row of painted fleur de lis as well as a few colorful paintings on black velvet. (Sorry, no Elvis.)

For breakfast have eggs with machaca (dried, shredded beef typical of Sonora) or pancakes. For lunch you can get a large shrimp soup, chicken burger with fries, breaded shrimp or fish filet, or a humble quesadilla in addition to several meat-oriented plates. The gorditas (plujmp maize cakes topped with shredded meat, potatoes, grated cheese, and all the fixings) are justifiably legendary. For less than $4 you get three of these beauties, which are deliciously crisp and not at all greasy. That’s more than a meal for a light eater.

To drink, sip a hot chocolate or a cold lemonade made with mineral water, or bring your own booze.

City: Alamos State: Sonora Region: Northern Mexico Who: Reyna cooks yummy meals in her large kitchen What: Exceptional regional meals and snacks Where: Calle Obregon 8, next to Hacienda de los Tesoros Tel. 647/428-1407 When: 8AM to 9PM daily (closed Sunday August, Sept.) Why: Clean, satisfying, large portions How: Centrally located downtown, a few blocks from cathedral and main plaza Cost: Fill up for $4 to $8 Other notes: Cash only