Fonda de Cristina, near La Caleta beach, Acapulco

On a trip to Acapulco in March 2007, I inquired about good, cheap eats in the Zona Dorada: the hotel zone facing busy La Costera, I was directed to La Tortuga, which is indeed a wonderful and inexpensive little patio restaurant. The fixed-price daily special there was 60 pesos (less than US$6), but the rest of the menu was pricier. I decided to search on. If you’re looking for a meal deal in the beach resort of Acapulco, it’s best to abandon La Costera and head for the old town.

Providence and a desire to swim at La Caleta beach led me to Fonda de Cristina. At 10:30AM, I was searching for something other than seafood or stew to break my fast, but these are really the only things on the menu. I asked for cheese enchiladas and got three fatties covered with green sauce. The bill was 20 pesos, including my agua de jamaica natural drink. English-speaking Lucia asked if I wanted lettuce and tomato on top of the enchiladas, and when she assured me that they are washed in water disinfected with Microdine, I said yes. The meal was delicious and the staff efficient and friendly

City: Acapulco State: Guerrero Who: Fonda de Cristina, presided over by Cristina herself What: : Inexpensive seafood and regional meat dishes. Nothing fancy. Vegetarians can order quesadillas or cheese enchiladas, although vegans will find absolutely nothing to eat here. Where: Avenida Costera, La Caleta, catercorner from Hotel Acamar Tel. No phone When: 7:30 to 7:30, daily Why: Join the locals and Mexican travelers at long wooden picnic tables for traditional dishes at rock bottom prices. The roasted chile verde, cilantro, and garlic salsa is delicious. How: Take an air-conditioned yellow bus, blue-and-white “Caleta” bus, micro, or taxi to La Caleta, where you can hang out at the beach and have breakfast, lunch, or an early and inexpensive dinner at this simple eatery across the road. Don’t expect breakfast foods like pancakes and eggs, however. Cost: Daily special (35 pesos): Rice, beans, handmade tortillas and salsa, and choice of entreé. Other notes: Menu in Spanish but some of the waitstaff speaks English. No credit cards.